Storms, Rainbows, and Veggies
We are currently connected to the world wide web in Mazatlan! What a strange feeling to have been disconnected or only partially connected for so long. How dependent we have become on trying to stay ‘connected’. At any rate, it is time for an update!
This month has brought so much stress and joy to sailing vessel Arena and her liveaboards!
In the last month, we have anchored in 11 different bays, enjoying the uniqueness of each place for various reasons – privacy for our family, big waves, large and small shells, crystal clear waters, coral reefs and tropical fish, safe harbour, and a meeting place for some of the most wonderful company we could hope for. We’d rounded the tip of Baja California Sur at Cabo San Lucas on November 11th with the intention of resting up for a bit before heading straight across the Sea for Mazatlan. We had just finished a rather active 3 day sail from Bahia Asuncion, landing in Cabo with high hopes of a reprieve and, dare I say, a little bit of familiar culture in town. Everything was so green and alive! A welcomed change from the desert outlook we’d gotten accustomed to. We splurged on Dairy Queen ice cream and a meal out with friends. The water was teaming with pangas and jetskis and tour boats. We had planned to unwind while wandering the town when the morning weather update showed the storm that would be named “Raymond” heading straight for us. It freaked me out! All of our great plans to kick back and relax for a few days were gone and all I wanted was to get as far away from Mr. Raymond as we could. Jamie may have been a bit more level headed, but agreed to not wait around to see how this tropical depression would pan out. There is something QUITE unnerving about watching a swirling mass being predicted to hit with gusto directly where you are positioned in the water, We decided to head up into the Sea in search of a safe harbour. We had a 5 day warning, so there was definitely time to make the most informed decision for safety as the storm progressed and morphed as they do. We ended up tucking away just north of La Paz in Bahia Falso. After making sure to batten the hatches and secure Arena in tightly, Raymond ended up being gentle on us and we really appreciated it! We actually really enjoyed tucking away with no plans, savouring each others’ company, reading and crafting to pass the time. At the end of the storm, we were gifted a double rainbow, A reminder of hope! ‘Prepare for the worst, hope for the best’ seemed to be a ftting motto that left us relieved and ready to get moving. Through this experience, we learned from others and learned about ourselves. We gained experience from the others in the bay who had tidbits of safety to share and we participated in the forming of a community where we all knew we had each others’ backs in the event of unwelcomed challenges. I learned that I actually have a lot of faith in Jamie and his ability to make decisions. He learned that I REALLY don’t want to be in a storm….and hopefully he noticed that I was able to stay cool about it in case we couldn’t avoid being knocked around. I learned that my kids are tough, and they’re resilient, and that they’re pretty laid back about going with the flow.
After the threat of Raymond, we were ready to move on and enjoy the calm after the storm. We headed to Isla Espiritu Santo, officially one of my favourite places in Mexico thus far, We walked the white sand beaches and snorkelled in the coral. Sting rays, manta rays, turtles, brightly coloured fish and moray eels…I could go on and on. We didn’t leave the water until the sun was setting. The weather was perfect. The day was perfect.
We learned later that another low pressure system was brewing and heading up the Sea. We anchored twice more in other bays as we moved north before finding our safe harbour just north of Evaristo. This storm also didn’t reach its predicted potential and left us pleasantly underwhelmed and a lot further north than we’d intended! Oh my goodness, did it ever rain! We caught buckets and buckets of clean drinking water to add to our tanks. Lochlan bathed in the cockpit while the rain poured all around him. The decks were washed clean and once again, after the storm had passed, we got front row seats to enjoy another vibrant rainbow. How fortunate are we? Evaristo was a beautifully quaint village with a tiny school and a tienda in a house with very sparsely stocked shelves. I felt self conscious about stocking up too much on food that clearly isn’t readily available for the locals. There were 2 tomatoes on the shelf, both growing thick mold and a box of tired, withering limes. That’s it for fresh food!!!!! I was a bit concerned as we hadn’t stocked up since Bahia Falsa and weren’t going to be near a tienda for the next week at the very least. I bought enough to hold us over,but desperately wishing for something fresh. This place called Evaristo brought us all so much joy. Great company and so many laughs, The rain was so welcomed, like having a piece of home just a little closer.
During these days of outrunning unfavourable weather, we had the privilege of meeting new people, and growing quite close to some of them. Our friends on SV Spruce from the UK became daily companions for us, all 6 of us, until it was time for us to part ways. The time had come for them to sail north while we still had our sights set for more southern waters and a “see you later” was inevitable.
In all honesty, I have begun to dislike the phrase “see you later “. We have sailed alongside some of the most unique people from various parts of the world, many that have become as close as family to us. Together weathering potentially scary storms, afternoons of tea or snorkelling, tubing, hikes and exploring, and cold drinks at sunset in a cockpit, we have had to say “see you later” to friends that couldn’t possibly know the impact they have had on our family. How does one protect their heart while that same heart longs for connection with others? Impossible. I’m sure there is a quote for this same feeling that I will have to look up to add. This life that we have chosen is SO FULL of wonder and joy and adventure, but I think I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention the loneliness factor. Although we live in a small, floating home with 6 people, this life does get lonely. Perhaps no more lonely than any other life can be, except that night shift in the vast open space makes you ponder this emotion a little deeper. Maybe it’s just that there is less distraction around us, or perhaps it is, in fact, a little more lonely. There are fewer people out here than on any given street. Riley mentioned the other day that she misses the days when we recognized other people, even just a face without a name. She misses having someone stop us in the store to have a quick catch up before going about our day. Interesting thing to miss, but it occurred to me that, while we have some really awesome moments in the local communities, none of the communities are ours. We don’t ever recognize anyone in a rural tienda, or on the streets of the cities we visit. We are outsiders. We don’t actually belong in these places, we’re just passing through. So while I dislike saying “see you later”, I think it’s more desirable to be vulnerable and share our lives in an intense, intimate moment or finite period of time. I suppose I’d rather share what I have with other likeminded souls than to not know community of any kind and wish for it always. Perhaps we actually DO belong, just not the way we once knew it. So, to conclude this ramble, maybe “see you later” isn’t so bad after all. At any rate, I do believe we will have to get used to saying it.
The kids had an awesome experience on Isla Espiritu Santo this last stop in. Kids boats everywhere! Tons of kids hanging out in a big group, swimming, snorkeling, tubing, movies. Their first real encounter with a pile of boat kids! Here’s hoping there are more days of this ahead! They have been waiting and hoping for this for months. Does all of our hearts some good to see excitement for their own people!
One afternoon as we were waiting for the weather to brighten, the kids asked Jamie and I if we got the life we’d hoped for when we were younger. I don’t recall if Jamie had a goal for adulthood. I told them that I had hoped to live in a Volkswagen van with my soulmate wherever our whims took us, Maybe owning a piece of property to grow vegetables that I’d sell at the farmer’s market, all while living in my van. Lowered expectations? On the contrary! Keeping life simple in Canada is remarkably difficult! One of the kids decided that I’d been allowed my dream, I’d just chosen the wrong vehicle. I love their clarity! We have been given a gift living this life, but so far, I haven’t had to sell veggies! I suppose that time will come!
Veggies and fruit are something that we think about A LOT these days! Fresh produce is hard to come by in the small villages and we crave fresh food. We imagine what fruits we’d eat if we had them and what veggies I’d add to our meals of freshly caught tuna. Once we reached Mazatlan this morning, all I cared about was finding a great outdoor market to stock up on brightly coloured foods of all shapes and sizes, adding life to our diets, I explained to Mom this afternoon that every. single. piece of produce that looked good to me went into my bags. Pepinos, ajo, cilantro, melon, pina. naranja, limon, plantanos, zanahorias, pimientos, broccoli, avacados, cebollas, papas….each fruit or veg that we’d choose, the woman selling would help with pronunciation if it wasn’t quite right. She was so wonderfully helpful and joyful, I could’ve squeezed her and her husband. She boosted my confidence in the Spanish that I do know. She chatted away to Jamie in Spanish and we left feeling much heavier in our backpacks, but SO excited to eat good food. I don’t buy lettuce here. Just a “thing” I haven’t gotten over. I don’t want parasites and for some reason, lettuce just screams Montezuma’s revenge to me. Groceries are a bit more expensive here than what we’ve been paying on the Baja, but it’s still just a fraction of what we’d be paying in Canada.
The rest of the groceries bought at a second mercado, we headed back to Arena via Uber. An Uber in Mazatlan is about 30 pesos for a good distance (just over $2 CAD) and so easy to use! Back on Arena, we are exhausted. Passages, even if they are only 2 days, are a bit life sucking. Everyone has long been in bed while I have my day and night mixed up still.
We are off to the ferreteria tomorrow for boat job supplies. Jamie officially has a never-ending list!
Buenas noches 😊